Bodhgaya - Part One

Bodhgaya. Nancy and I thought, when we were planning our travels, that, of course, we'd have to return to Bodhgaya, the place where our first meeting took place in December of 1979. Although we didn't “hook up” until almost two years later, in Santa Cruz, CA, in September of 1981, we both know that the seed for this lifetime's adventure together had been planted earlier, in India, in Bodhgaya. What we couldn't have known is how much more than we'd expected Bodhgaya would hold for us on this second visit here, 36 years later.

It began with our arrival at Gaya, the big city closest to much smaller Bodhgaya, by overnight sleeper train from Delhi, at 4 in the morning, and our being met in the too-early dark by Navin and Chandan, cousins, who would drive us to Bodhgaya and to the Tara Guest House, where we had booked our room and had arranged this transport. We were of course tired, and didn't engage too much with them on the 30 minute or so drive. When we arrived at Tara they offered us tea or water, but we declined saying that we were tired and would just go to sleep. No problem. Ok. They carried our bags up to our room and left us to settle in.

Over the next 5 days we would get to know the family who live at and manage Tara Guest House, would regularly eat with them, would laugh with and learn from them, would visit the school they teach at, would hear about this project, about the guest house itself, about Dominique, the retired French nurse who started, organized, funded, inspires and oversees both the guest house, which was build with her money in order to provide income to fund the school, and the school itself, which exists because of her vision and dedication. And finally, we would meet Dominique herself.

The Principle Cast of Characters:

Navin: second son of matriarch Virmila, part time teacher of science at Shantindia School, soon, in November, to be a first time father, dedicated educator, arranged husband of Poonam, enthusiastic English speaker, knowledgable and communicative;


                                                                                     

Poonam: arranged wife of Navin and soon to be first time mother, some time cook at home, general householder, non-English speaker, more reserved and quiet than the others;

Sintu: younger sister of Navin and daughter of Virmila, dedicated educator at Shatindia School, principle cook at Tara Guest House, certificate student of Homeopathic Medicine, mother of two sons, 4 year old Prem and 2 year old Ananda, (aka “Monster”, for his predilection for roaming up to guest's rooms and making himself known, and reluctant breast relinquisher), enthusiastic English speaker;

Preens: adopted 12 year old son, blindingly bright light, all around helper and eager student, good and improving English speaker, the sort of boy you wish the world for;

Anuj: oldest son of Virmila, manager of Tara Guest House and Shantindia School and dedicated to both, traveler with and right hand man to Dominique, passionate and knowledgable about the school, about the Indian education system and about communicating in English regarding it all;

Virmila: matriarch, sharp, observant, knowledgable, non-English speaker, clearly though unobtrusively the boss, and the proper recipient of any gifts one might wish to bestow, to be distributed further according to her wishes;

                                                                                       

Dominique: sponsor, educator, guide and instructor into the world of cleanliness and sanitation and institution creation and management, fairy god-mother, business developer, overseer, scolder (lovingly), hugger, lover of all, dedicated Buddhist practitioner, Indiophile.

Supporting Cast:

Chandan: cousin, business competitor building another guest house within hand shaking distance from the window of our room, teacher, driver, English speaker, at home at Tara Guest House yet not living there.

Krishna: husband of Sintu, quiet, somewhat estranged but visiting his sons, formerly having a drinking problem but now two months sober and perhaps because of this more welcomed, non-English speaker.

Binay:  family friend, learning English speaker, former animal herder, aspiring professional and currently practicing/newbee guide, young and with some ambition and wanting to better his lot.

To be continued.....................................