A few nights ago we spent several hours, and
shared a meal with Gail, an astoundingly kindred spirit from inland
Western Canada. She spent several months here at the Albatross last
year, and is just now back for more. What a delight to talk and share
and laugh and discover so many striking parallels in our lives: Gail
has trained and worked as an art therapist; is a cancer survivor; is
“retired” and renting out her house; is like minded in areas of
healing, eating, discovering, growing and being. And she's a great
and easy and familiar person. She feels like good family.
(By special request {I'm mean it}, I'm including some photos and a video of our room with balcony at the Albatross Guesthouse. We were quite comfortable here for our two week stay. Cost, about 550baht/$16 a night)
(By special request {I'm mean it}, I'm including some photos and a video of our room with balcony at the Albatross Guesthouse. We were quite comfortable here for our two week stay. Cost, about 550baht/$16 a night)
And then the next morning-ish we met Sidney, Gail's friend from last year, who lives permanently in a beautiful jungle neighborhood just around the corner, so to speak, from Thung Wua Laen Beach. An old boy from Brooklyn! So he and I have that certain instant Jewish New Yorker familiarity. A lovely mathematician retiree with a kind of soft hearted curmungeonliness and a ready smile of self deprecation that makes laughing with him quite easy. He agrees, for example, that we ought to ignore almost everything he says about anything. Also a fount of information about Thailand's ways and means, having been here for 12 years.
THEN, that night, we had dinner with
some other friends of Gail from last year, John and Jane, also
American expats from Seattle, now living in this area for the past 4
½ years and loving it. This was a high octane, compressed,
concentrated evening of all kinds of information, 97.8 % of which I
have already forgotten or had never assimilated to begin with, but
they were good people to spend some time with and hear from about
Thai food options – they introduced us to a couple of wonderful
dishes that we wouldn't have known about, both of which could easily
be made vegetarian: massaman, a dark curry, and a different coconut
milk curry – living in Thailand, diving (they're both enthusiastic
divers, and Jane does underwater photography), and just a lot about
their experience of moving to Thung Wua Laen. They're near neighbors
of Sidney, and after renting for three years, and making lots of Thai
connections, they had a house built.
So as I was saying in a previous post,
even the other farangs here don't seem to have any interest in
relating or connecting. Hmm. Maybe it just takes a little time in a
place....................
News Flash!
(I'm not sure how to relate with the
following just yet. I'm wondering about it, and, well, leaving my
conclusions open).
Nancy is now a biker chick!
And apparently I'm a crazy, reckless,
devil may care biker dude.
By this I mean that we did end up
renting a little 125cc motorbike (we call them, usually with a
derogatory bias, “scooters” in the US), and riding hither and yon
around the surrounding areas of our rural beach location. Little,
rather meaningless, I think, really, helmets, and no other safety or
protective gear. I've violated my own dedicated American commitment
to riding safety, AND, I've exposed my beloved wife to the same
madness, which she now actually likes! What's going on here!?
After at first declining to rent a
bike, and then Nancy riding several miles on the back of Pon's bike
to the little town of Saphli to get some fresh fruit, and not
returning traumatized by the experience, we decided to get one for
ourselves and do a little exploring around the jungle surrounding
Thang Wua Laen Beach. Going slowly, carefully, in an area with very
little traffic and a leisurely pace of things, the fact that we were
wearing shorts and sandals and no gloves or jacket became acceptable
in a way that I can't imagine it being in the States. When in
Rome...........etc.? I think the fact that I have motorcycle
experience and training allows me to think that at least I'm not
entirely unprepared for the potential risks. We're not in Kansas
anymore, Dorothy.
So farewell for now to our little beach
haven, and on to Cha Am, a 3 hour train ride north. I thought Cha Am
would be much smaller than it is, based on people's descriptions of
the place as “pretty small and quiet”, but it turns out that my
definition of “small and quiet” is based on our lives on Cerro
Chato, where our nearest town, Madrid, is what I'd call “pretty
small and quiet”, and not relative to a big city. Cha Am is in fact
a “small” city on the gulf coast, and not exactly what I would
call small and quiet at all, although we arrived on a Saturday, and
the weekends are busier and noisier with Bangkok Thais coming here
routinely for weekend get-away's and it just so happened that this Saturday night there is another BLARINGLY LOUD THAI AMPLIFIED MUSIC corporate party right down the street from us at the main courtyard/bandstand on the beach. I'm told that weekdays are truly
quiet. We'll see.
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